Theory · topic 7 of 10 · 8 min

Weather

Weather decides whether you sail, where to and under how much canvas. Read the pressure pattern, the sky and the forecast, know the local winds, and you are in harbour before the trouble starts.

1 · Pressure systems

Highs, lows and the wind between them

Which way does the wind blow around a low-pressure system in the northern hemisphere?

Anticlockwise round a low and clockwise round a high, along the isobars and angled 10–15° in towards the low over the sea; the closer the isobars, the stronger the wind. With your back to the wind, the low is on your left.

Wind follows the isobars: in the northern hemisphere anticlockwise round a low and clockwise round a high, angled 10–15° in towards the low over the sea. The closer the isobars, the stronger the wind.

Lowanticlockwise · tight isobars, strong wind
Highclockwise · wide isobars, light wind

Buys Ballot's law: stand with your back to the wind and the low is on your left.

One barometer reading says little; watch the trend. A fall of 6 hPa in three hours warns of strong wind; so does a fast rise after a front.

2 · Depressions and fronts

What the sky tells you

How does the wind change as a depression passes north of me?

It veers, clockwise from SW to NW, as a warm front, a mild warm sector and then a cold front go through; the cold front brings squalls, heavy rain and a sharp veer to NW. Passing south, the wind backs.

As a low passes north of you the wind veers, clockwise from SW to NW; passing south, it backs, anticlockwise. It brings a warm front, a mild warm sector, then a cold front; an occlusion is both in one.

StageSigns
Warm front comingHigh cloud thickening, a halo, falling glass, rain
Warm sectorWind veers, drizzle, milder, glass steadies
Cold frontDark towering cloud, squalls, heavy rain, sharp veer to NW
Behind itGusty NW, showers, clear air, glass rising fast

Small flat cumulus that vanish by evening: settled weather. Cumulus towering by mid-morning: thunderstorms by afternoon. Lens-shaped clouds over the peaks: strong wind aloft, hard gusts in their lee.

3 · Wind strength

Beaufort, gusts and the wind you feel

Should I reef for the forecast mean wind or for the gusts?

Reef for the gusts, and early: the force is named from the mean wind, but gusts overpower the boat, and under high land they can be half as strong again. Double the wind is four times the load.

ForceKnotsSea
411–16Fairly frequent white horses
517–21Many white horses
622–27Large waves, spray
728–33Sea heaps up, foam in streaks
834–40Gale
941–47Strong gale

The force is named from the mean wind, but gusts overpower the boat: reef for them, and early. Under high land they can be half as strong again. Double the wind is four times the load. In an app, 1 m/s is about 2 knots.

You feel the apparent wind. Running, boat speed is taken off the true wind; beating, most of it is added. Reef before you turn upwind.

Runningtrue 20 kn, boat 7 kn: 13 kn felt
Close-hauledtrue 20 kn, boat 6 kn: about 25 kn felt
4 · Forecasts

Where to get one and how to read it

Can I trust a GRIB file or weather app, or do I need an official forecast?

Go by the official forecast: Navtex, coast radio, the harbour office or a national service. A GRIB or app is raw model output that misses funnelling, gusts and thunderstorms; an official warning outranks any app.

Official forecasts come by Navtex, by coast radio (announced on VHF channel 16, read on a working channel), from the harbour office and from national services such as Poseidon in Greece or DHMZ in Croatia. Check the time of issue.

A GRIB or an app is raw model output: it misses funnelling, gusts and thunderstorms, and days ahead it is only a trend. If models disagree, plan for the strongest. An official warning outranks any app; a port-police departure ban is binding.

TermMeans
Imminent · soon · laterWithin 6 h · in 6–12 h · after 12 h
Veering · backingShifting clockwise · anticlockwise
Visibility good · moderate · poor · fogOver 5 M · 2–5 M · 1,000 m–2 M · under 1,000 m
Sea slight · moderate · rough0.5–1.25 m · 1.25–2.5 m · 2.5–4 m
LocallyIn channels and off capes
NavtexNavtex 09:00 UTC
  • GALE WARNING
  • Southern Aegean: N 8, imminent
  • 09:00 UTC is 12:00 Greek summer time
  • Imminent: the gale by 18:00 local
5 · Local winds and sea

What the coast does to wind and waves

Why does the wind get up every afternoon near the coast on a hot day?

That is a sea breeze: on a hot sunny day the land draws wind in from the sea, often 15 knots by afternoon, more where the gradient wind blows the same way. It is gone at sunset.

On a hot sunny day the land draws in a sea breeze: often 15 knots by afternoon, more where a gradient wind blows the same way, gone at sunset. After a clear night a light land breeze blows offshore until sunrise.

High land bends the wind: it accelerates through straits and round capes, falls in gusts in the lee of a high island, and on clear nights pours out of valleys as a cold katabatic wind.

Waves grow with fetch, the open water the wind has crossed: the sea is smallest under the windward shore. Wind against current makes short, steep seas. Swell outruns its weather: it warns of a distant system and can ruin a calm anchorage.

6 · Mediterranean winds

The named winds, and planning round them

When does the Meltemi blow in the Aegean, and how strong does it get?

The Meltemi is the Aegean's summer northerly, dry and clear, force 5 to 7. It is lightest at dawn and strongest in the afternoon, so sail the upwind legs early in the day.

The Meltemi is the Aegean's summer northerly: dry, clear, force 5 to 7, between a high over the Balkans and a low over Turkey. It blows NE in the north, N in the Cyclades and NW in the Dodecanese, lightest at dawn, strongest in the afternoon.

WindFromWhere and what
BoraNEAdriatic: cold, violent gusts; cloud cap on the mountains
Jugo, siroccoSESlow build, rain, heavy sea
MaestralNWAdriatic afternoon breeze, fair weather
MistralNWGulf of Lion: clear-sky gale
TramontanaNBalearics, Gulf of Lion
LibeccioSWCorsica's west coast: heavy sea
GregaleNEMalta
Levante · PonienteE · WGibraltar

Plan round it: upwind legs early in the day and early in the week; anchor for tonight's wind and swell; with a gale warning or a green crew, wait.

7 · Thunderstorms and fog

Sudden wind, no visibility

What should I do on a sailboat when a thunderstorm squall is coming?

Reef hard or drop the sails, close the hatches and put lifejackets on: ahead of a thunderstorm the wind drops, then 40 knots can hit. In lightning, send the crew below, clear of the mast.

A thunderstorm cloud, towering with an anvil top, pushes a cold gust front ahead: the wind drops, then 40 knots can hit from the storm. A low roll of cloud over white water is minutes away.

40 knSquall coming
  • Reef hard or drop the sails
  • Close hatches, lifejackets on
  • Lightning: crew below, clear of the mast
  • Waterspout: watch its bearing, motor clear

Radiation fog forms over land on clear, calm nights and burns off by mid-morning. Sea fog (advection fog) forms when warm moist air meets a colder sea, mostly in spring; wind does not clear it.

Practice questions

Questions from this topic, as the app asks them. Open one to see the answer.

The forecast chart shows isobars packed tightly over your area tomorrow. What do you expect?

  1. Strong wind — stay in port or reef early
  2. Light variable winds
  3. A sea breeze only
  4. Calm and fog
Show the answer

A. Strong wind — stay in port or reef early

Close isobars = steep pressure gradient = strong wind.

Synoptic charts · Explained in: Pressure systems

Last six hours
  • Steady rain eases to drizzle
  • Wind veers S → SW
  • Temperature rises
  • Barometer stops falling

You have watched the weather for six hours. What has just happened?

  1. A high has moved over you — settled weather
  2. A warm front has passed — warm sector now
  3. A sea breeze has set in — it will die tonight
  4. A cold front has passed — clearing is coming
Show the answer

B. A warm front has passed — warm sector now

Warm front passing: wind veers, rain eases to drizzle, temperature rises, glass steadies.

Fronts · Explained in: Depressions and fronts

Wind instruments
  • True wind 25 kn, steady for an hour
  • Gusts to 29 kn
  • At anchor, Poros

You read the wind instruments before leaving the anchorage. What force is the mean wind?

  1. Force 6
  2. Force 7
  3. Force 5
  4. Force 4
Show the answer

A. Force 6

F6 is 22–27 kn; the force is named from the mean wind, not the gusts.

Beaufort scale · Explained in: Wind strength

Forecast issued 06:00
  • S 4, veering W 5 later
  • Sea slight
  • Visibility good

You read this forecast before a passage. What does it tell you to expect?

  1. An anticlockwise shift to west, F5, within 6 h
  2. A shift to east, F5, in 6 to 12 h
  3. Wind staying south, gusting F5, from noon
  4. A clockwise shift to west, F5, after 12 h
Show the answer

D. A clockwise shift to west, F5, after 12 h

Veering = clockwise; "later" = more than 12 hours from the time of issue.

Forecast terms · Explained in: Forecasts

A hot sunny morning, calm. By 14:00 a steady 15-knot onshore wind has set in. What is it?

  1. A sea breeze — it will die at sunset
  2. The Meltemi
  3. A land breeze
  4. A front passing
Show the answer

A. A sea breeze — it will die at sunset

Warm land draws air in from the sea on sunny afternoons.

Local winds · Explained in: Local winds and sea

Aegean, July. The forecast shows this pattern for a week. What wind?

  1. Sea fog
  2. The Meltemi — strong dry northerly, F5–7, strongest in the afternoon
  3. A warm southerly
  4. Thunderstorms
Show the answer

B. The Meltemi — strong dry northerly, F5–7, strongest in the afternoon

High over the Balkans, low over Turkey: the Meltemi.

Mediterranean winds · Explained in: Mediterranean winds

Practise it

All 100 questions of this topic are in the app: practice by topic with the reason after every answer, your mistakes brought back, and a timed mock exam. Free, no sign-up, in the browser or in Telegram.