Theory · topic 9 of 10 · 9 min

Ocean meteorology

Ocean routes follow the planet's wind belts. One thing you avoid at any price: the tropical revolving storm, where your hemisphere decides every action.

1 · Wind belts

Trades, doldrums and westerlies

Which way do the trade winds blow in each hemisphere?

NE in the northern hemisphere, SE in the southern: the trades flow from the highs near 30° back towards the ITCZ, the doldrums, turned by Coriolis.

Air rises at the ITCZ, the doldrums: calms and squalls. It sinks near 30° in a belt of highs, the horse latitudes, and flows back as the trades, turned by Coriolis: NE in the northern hemisphere, SE in the southern. Poleward blow the westerlies with their lows, then the polar easterlies.

The ITCZ follows the Sun and is wider in the east: cross it further west, with fuel for the calms. Winter highs reinforce the trades to 25–30 kn; El Niño weakens the Pacific trades and moves the cyclones east. Trade-wind squalls travel with the wind and can double it: reef before they arrive.

2 · Highs and monsoons

Which side of the high to sail

Which side of an ocean high should I sail to avoid the calms?

Keep out of its calm centre: the trades blow on a high's equatorward side, the westerlies on its poleward side. Wind circles it clockwise in the northern hemisphere, anticlockwise in the southern; route by where it lies today.

Wind circles a high clockwise in the northern hemisphere, anticlockwise in the southern. Either way the trades blow on its equatorward side, the westerlies on its poleward side, calms in the centre. Route by where it lies today.

Northern high
Southern high

A monsoon reverses with the season: in the northern Indian Ocean and the South China Sea the NE monsoon (November–March) is fair, the SW monsoon (June–September) blows force 6–7, and between them come calms, squalls and cyclones. The Red Sea is NNW all year, except SSE in its southern half in winter.

3 · Depressions

Let the low pass on the poleward side

Which side should I let a depression pass when sailing east across an ocean?

On your poleward side: lows travel east, and with the centre passing poleward of you the wind stays westerly and fair, veering SW to NW in the northern hemisphere, backing NW to SW in the southern.

Lows travel east, turning anticlockwise in the northern hemisphere and clockwise in the southern. Bound east, let the centre pass on your poleward side: the wind stays westerly and fair.

Northern hemisphere
Southern hemisphere
Centre passesNorthernSouthern
Poleward of youveers SW → NWbacks NW → SW
Equatorwardbacks SE → NEveers NE → SE

The cold front brings the shift, squalls and a rising glass. Southern Ocean lows come in a train: a brief ridge, then NW wind and a falling glass for the next.

4 · Tropical revolving storms

Where and when, and the first signs

What are the first warning signs of a hurricane or tropical cyclone at sea?

A long swell from the storm's bearing, cirrus fanning from one point, then the barometer: corrected for its daily 3 hPa swing, 3 hPa below normal means suspect a tropical revolving storm, 5 means act.

A tropical revolving storm needs a sea of 26.5 °C and Coriolis, so it forms at least 5° from the equator, in its hemisphere's summer and autumn. It moves west and poleward, then recurves towards the pole and east, faster.

Northern hemisphere
Southern hemisphere
OceanNameSeason
North AtlantichurricaneJune–November
NW Pacifictyphoonmostly June–November
South Pacific, South IndiancycloneNovember–April
North Indiancyclonemonsoon changes
South Atlanticalmost none—

First signs: a long swell from the storm's bearing, cirrus fanning from one point, then the barometer. Tropical pressure swings 3 hPa daily (high 1000 and 2200, low 0400 and 1600); corrected for that, 3 hPa below normal means suspect, 5 means act. In the eye the wind drops, then returns as hard from the opposite side.

5 · Avoiding a storm

Find the centre, then act by hemisphere

Which way should I steer to get clear of a tropical revolving storm?

Keep the wind on the starboard bow, close-hauled, if it veers and you are in the dangerous semicircle; on the starboard quarter, running, if it backs or holds steady with a falling glass. South of the equator it is port, and backing means dangerous.

Buys Ballot's law: face the wind and the centre is about 10 points (112°) to your right in the northern hemisphere, to your left in the southern.

Northern hemisphere
Southern hemisphere

In the dangerous semicircle the storm's speed adds to the wind, and the wind carries you into its path: right of the track in the northern hemisphere, left in the southern. The other half is navigable. The wind shift tells you which half you are in; so does the centre's bearing: moving clockwise, you are right of the track.

Northern, dangerouswind on starboard bow
Northern, navigablewind on starboard quarter
Southern, dangerouswind on port bow
Southern, navigablewind on port quarter
WindNorthern hemisphereSouthern hemisphere
Veersdangerous: close-hauled, starboard tacknavigable: run, port quarter
Backsnavigable: run, starboard quarterdangerous: close-hauled, port tack
Steady, glass fallingon the track: run, starboard quarteron the track: run, port quarter
Remember

North: wind to starboard. South: wind to port. Bow in the dangerous half, quarter in the navigable.

The 1-2-3 rule adds 100, 200 and 300 M to the 34-knot radius at 24, 48 and 72 hours: forecast error grows. The gale arrives at (distance − radius) ÷ speed. Move early; a stalled storm can go anywhere.

6 · Currents, swell and fog

What the wind does to moving water

Why should I not cross the Gulf Stream with a northerly wind?

Wind against current raises short, steep, breaking seas, and the Gulf Stream sets NE at 3 kn: cross it, or ride the Agulhas, only with the wind going its way.

CurrentSetsNote
Gulf StreamNE, 3 knsharp cold north wall
AgulhasSW, 2–4 knSW gale: go inshore of 200 m
KuroshioNE, 2–4 knJapan's Gulf Stream
HumboldtN, coldcool, cloudy, dry
North EquatorialW, 0.5 knfair westbound

Wind against current raises short, steep, breaking seas: cross the Gulf Stream or ride the Agulhas only with the wind going its way. Moist air chilled over a cold current gives advection fog that wind does not clear. Swell outruns a distant storm at 1.5 × its period, in knots. Steer across a waterspout's track.

7 · Pilot charts and forecasts

Climate for the plan, forecasts for the day

Can I trust a GRIB forecast when a tropical storm is near?

No: trust the advisory, not the GRIB. A GRIB shows the mean wind: gusts run 40 % higher, squalls are missing and storms blunted. Where models disagree, plan for the worse.

A pilot chart shows one month's averages: wind roses, gale and calm percentages, ice limits, past storm tracks. It is history: an empty route means rare, not impossible.

Reading a pilot chart
  • Arrows fly with the wind, to the circle
  • Arrow length: how often from there
  • Feathers: the mean force
  • Figure in the circle: % of calms
  • Gales 15 % × 8 days = 1.2 days of gale
SourceLimits
NAVTEX300–400 M from the station
SafetyNET, HF weatherfaxocean-wide; a fax chart is hours old
GRIBmean wind: gusts 40 % more, no squalls, storms blunted
Routeradvises; the skipper decides
Rule

Models disagree: plan for the worse. Tropical storm: trust the advisory, not the GRIB.

Practice questions

Questions from this topic, as the app asks them. Open one to see the answer.

Leaving Gran Canaria, late November
  • Azores High 1028 hPa near 34°N 30°W
  • Air flows south towards the equator
  • Your wind at 20°N: NE 5

You are three days out of Las Palmas on the ARC route, in the trade-wind belt. Why does the wind blow from the NE and not straight from the N?

  1. The Earth's rotation turns it to the right
  2. The Sahara's heat pulls it in from the east
  3. The Azores High spins it anticlockwise
  4. The Canary Current drags it to the west
Show the answer

A. The Earth's rotation turns it to the right

Coriolis turns moving air to the right in the north: the flow back to the equator becomes the NE trade.

Global circulation — the trade winds · Explained in: Wind belts

You leave Bermuda for Horta in early June, and the Azores High lies across the rhumb line, as here. Which way do you go?

  1. North of the centre, where the westerlies blow
  2. South of the centre, along its southern side
  3. Wait in Bermuda until the high has moved away
  4. Straight through the centre, the shortest way
Show the answer

A. North of the centre, where the westerlies blow

Round a northern high the wind turns clockwise: westerlies on its north side, easterlies on its south side, calm in the middle.

Subtropical highs — the Azores High · Explained in: Highs and monsoons

You are crossing from Newport to the Azores, and this depression is passing north of you. How does the wind change when its cold front comes through?

  1. It veers from NW to NE, then falls calm
  2. It backs from SW to SE, with drizzle
  3. It backs from NW to SW, the glass falling
  4. It veers from SW to NW, in squalls
Show the answer

D. It veers from SW to NW, in squalls

North of the equator a cold front brings a sharp veer, SW to W or NW, squalls, then a rising glass and clearer air.

Depressions — fronts on an ocean crossing · Explained in: Depressions

One kind of storm, four oceans
  • A: the Caribbean, September
  • B: the Philippines, August
  • C: Fiji, February
  • D: the Bay of Bengal, November

On a circumnavigation you will hear storm warnings in each of these places. What does each forecast call a tropical revolving storm?

  1. Cyclone, typhoon, hurricane, hurricane
  2. Hurricane, hurricane, typhoon, cyclone
  3. Typhoon, hurricane, cyclone, typhoon
  4. Hurricane, typhoon, cyclone, cyclone
Show the answer

D. Hurricane, typhoon, cyclone, cyclone

Atlantic and NE Pacific: hurricane; NW Pacific: typhoon; Indian Ocean and South Pacific: (tropical) cyclone.

Tropical revolving storms — names · Explained in: Tropical revolving storms

This hurricane east of the Leeward Islands is moving west. Which side of it is the dangerous semicircle?

  1. The west side, ahead of the centre
  2. The south side, left of the track
  3. The north side, right of the track
  4. The east side, behind the centre
Show the answer

C. The north side, right of the track

North of the equator it is the right-hand half, looking along the track: the storm's speed adds to the wind, which blows you into its path.

Tropical revolving storms — semicircles · Explained in: Avoiding a storm

Fort Lauderdale, 1800
  • Bimini: 45 M east, across the Gulf Stream
  • Gulf Stream setting N at 3 kn
  • Cold front due 2000, then N 20–25 kn
  • Tomorrow evening: E 10, easing

You are ready to cross to the Bahamas. When do you go?

  1. Tomorrow morning, in the N 20–25 kn
  2. Tonight, while the front is passing
  3. Tomorrow evening, once the northerly has eased
  4. Now, to get across ahead of the front
Show the answer

C. Tomorrow evening, once the northerly has eased

Wind against a 3 kn current raises short, steep, breaking seas: never cross the Gulf Stream with a wind from the north.

Ocean currents — wind against current · Explained in: Currents, swell and fog

Practise it

All 100 questions of this topic are in the app: practice by topic with the reason after every answer, your mistakes brought back, and a timed mock exam. Free, no sign-up, in the browser or in Telegram.