Theory · topic 7 of 10 · 9 min

Meteorology

Offshore there is no harbour to run for: read the chart yourself, weigh each forecast, decide early.

1 · Pressure systems

Which way the wind turns

How can I tell from the wind which way the low is?

By Buys Ballot's law: stand with your back to the wind, and the low is on your left in the northern hemisphere, on your right in the southern.

Northern hemisphere: the wind turns clockwise round a high, slightly outwards, anticlockwise round a low, slightly inwards; in the south both reverse. Buys Ballot: back to the wind, the low is on your left in the north, your right in the south.

High, north
Low, south

A high's centre is nearly calm: route round its fair-wind side. A blocking high sits for days and steers the lows round it. A col, the saddle between two highs and two lows, gives light, shifting airs, fog or thunder. In summer the Azores high and Iberia's heat low drive a northerly down Portugal.

2 · Depressions

The track decides your wind

Will the wind veer or back as a depression passes me?

Face the way the low is travelling: in the northern hemisphere the wind veers on the right of its track and backs on the left. On the right its motion also adds to its wind.

The jet stream steers the lows: under a strong, straight jet they race through in series; a cut-off low wanders unpredictably. Face the way a low travels (northern hemisphere): the wind veers on the right of its track, backs on the left.

On the right its motion adds to its wind. Under the centre the wind dies at the lowest pressure, then returns hard from the opposite side.

LowExpect
Explosive24 hPa in 24 h at 60°N; a comma cloud
Ex-tropicalRe-deepens over cooler water
Polar low · medicaneSmall, fierce, poorly forecast
3 · Fronts

Occlusions and secondary lows

Where does a secondary low form, and what does it do to the wind?

A secondary low forms at the triple point, where the fronts meet, or as a wave on a trailing cold front: the wind backs again, rain returns and the glass falls. Its strongest wind lies away from the parent.

Triangles mark a cold front, semicircles a warm one; both on one side an occlusion, on opposite sides a stationary front. An occlusion brings one rain band and one veer, no warm sector.

A secondary low forms at the triple point, where the fronts meet, or as a wave on a trailing cold front: the wind backs again, rain returns, the glass falls. Its strongest wind lies away from the parent.

After the cold front's veer the old sea crosses the new; time the front by closing speed.

When does the front arrive?
  • Cold front 120 M W, moving E at 25 kn
  • You: heading W at 5 kn
  • Closing speed 25 + 5 = 30 kn
  • 120 ÷ 30 = 4 h: reef before then
4 · Wind from the chart

Isobars to the wind on deck

How do I work out the wind speed from isobar spacing on a chart?

Measure the spacing on the latitude scale and enter the geostrophic scale; take less round a low, more round a high, then about 0.8 of that at the sea, backed 15°.

Measure the spacing in miles on the latitude scale and enter the geostrophic scale, drawn for one interval and latitude: the same spacing gives less wind further north. Round a low the real (gradient) wind is less than the scale shows, round a high more; at the sea about 0.8 of that, backed 15°. A prognosis is valid at data time plus step.

Wind from the isobars
  • Geostrophic scale: 40 kn from 270°
  • Tight curve round a low: −15 % → 34 kn
  • At the sea: × 0.8 → 27 kn
  • Backed 15°: from 255°, force 6

Forecast and Beaufort wind is the 10 m mean; a masthead sensor reads more. Without one, read the sea.

ForceKnotsSea
622–27Large waves, white crests, spray
834–40Spindrift, foam in streaks
1048–55Storm; sea 'high' 6–9 m
1264 up'Hurricane force', any deep low
5 · Forecast products

How far to trust each

How far can I trust a GRIB file against the gale warning?

Less than the bulletin: a GRIB is one model run, hours old, giving the mean wind. Believe a gale that the bulletin and the ensemble show but your GRIB lacks.

SourceWhat it gives
NAVTEXA few hundred miles; add the station ahead
SafetyNETHigh seas bulletins by satellite
HF radiofaxAnalysis and prognosis charts
GRIBOne model run, hours old; mean wind

Read your own area, your route's and those to windward. The synopsis says where a low will be and how deep; 'losing its identity' means fading. An ensemble runs the model many times: the share of members showing a gale is its chance; a wide spread means low confidence.

Believe a gale the bulletin and ensemble show but your GRIB lacks. A coarse grid misses mountain gaps; a measured satellite wind beats the model; laden, divide a router's time by 0.8. Your own log outranks any forecast: allow for the barometer's daily swing in the tropics and your own run across the isobars; a slow fall means a long blow.

6 · Sea state and heavy weather

The sea does the damage

How much bigger than the significant wave height is the biggest wave?

Nearly twice: significant height (Hs) is the mean of the highest third of the waves, and the biggest single wave is nearly twice it.

Significant height (Hs) is the mean of the highest third; the biggest wave is nearly twice it. The sea is limited by the smaller of fetch and duration. Swell runs on from its storm, whatever the local wind. Steepness, not height, breaks crests: a short wind sea beats a higher long swell, worst against a current.

Swell with a period of 16 s
  • Wavelength ≈ 1.56 × 16² = 400 m
  • Feels the bottom at half that: 200 m
  • Speed ≈ 3 × 16 = 48 kn; it arrives at 24 kn
  • Pitching is worst when the wavelength
    is near the boat's length

Offshore, sea room is safety: drift, hove-to or running, times the gale's hours must fit inside the distance to the lee shore. A port of refuge counts only if you reach it with hours in hand and its entrance is safe in the gale. Give a window a margin; after a gale let the sea go down. A motor yacht's limit is the head sea, not the wind.

7 · Landfall weather

Fog, coasts and thunderstorms

What causes sea fog, and when does it clear?

Sea fog is advection fog: moist air cooled below its dew point by colder water, as over upwelling. It lasts until a cold front brings dry air.

Sea fog is advection fog: moist air cooled below its dew point by colder water, as over upwelling. It lasts until a cold front brings dry air: pick the wide, buoyed entrance. Sea smoke is steam where very cold air crosses warmer water.

Land on your right looking downwind (northern hemisphere): the wind converges along the coast and freshens; land on your left, it diverges and eases. Swell bends round a point into the bay behind it and reflects off cliffs: a confused sea. An east wind off the Sahara brings the calima, dust haze.

Over a warm sea thunderstorms peak at night; high CAPE in a GRIB warns of them. Plot a cell on radar like a ship: you cannot outrun it, so reef and pass astern; leave a waterspout's track at right angles. The gust front brings a sharp shift and double the wind. St Elmo's fire warns of a strike: crew off the rig, spare electronics in the oven; afterwards check the compass.

Practice questions

Questions from this topic, as the app asks them. Open one to see the answer.

You are two days out on an offshore passage, where the boat is drawn, south of the centre of this high. Where does the wind come from?

  1. From about ENE
  2. From about ESE
  3. From about N
  4. From about WSW
Show the answer

A. From about ENE

Round a high in the north air turns clockwise and slightly outwards: on its south side it blows from about ENE.

Pressure systems — wind round a high · Explained in: Pressure systems

Forecaster's notes, Monday
  • Jet at 300 hPa: 160 kn, straight W–E
  • Its axis lies across Biscay
  • Pattern expected to last 3–4 days
  • New low forming at 25°W

You are deciding whether to start a 3-day passage south across Biscay, and the forecaster's notes mention the jet stream. What does it tell you?

  1. Gales at the surface wherever the jet blows
  2. A blocking high will hold for the whole week
  3. Nothing — it is too high to affect the sea
  4. Lows will run fast along it, one after another
Show the answer

D. Lows will run fast along it, one after another

A strong straight jet steers and feeds surface lows: they form, deepen and race along beneath it in a quick series.

Depressions — the jet stream as context · Explained in: Depressions

Analysis, 0600 UTC
  • Occluded low 968 hPa near Iceland
  • Triple point 300 M W of Ireland
  • Pressure falling fast at the point
  • Your route: 150 M S of the point

You are one day out on a passage south-west of Ireland and read the latest analysis. Where do you watch for a new low that could reach you?

  1. Over Iceland, where the old low re-deepens
  2. At the triple point, where the fronts meet
  3. Behind the cold front, in the polar air
  4. Along the warm front, far to the east
Show the answer

B. At the triple point, where the fronts meet

A new (secondary) low often forms at the triple point of an old occluded system — here 150 M from your route.

Depressions — occlusion and the triple point · Explained in: Fronts

Chart and scale
  • Isobars drawn every 2 hPa
  • Adjacent isobars over you: 60 M apart
  • Scale made for 4-hPa spacing:
    60 M = 50 kn · 120 M = 25 kn

You are measuring the isobar spacing over your track on this chart. What geostrophic wind do you read?

  1. About 25 kn
  2. About 50 kn
  3. About 12 kn
  4. About 17 kn
Show the answer

A. About 25 kn

The scale is for 4 hPa: two 2-hPa gaps make 120 M, and 120 M on the scale gives 25 kn.

Synoptic charts — the geostrophic scale · Explained in: Wind from the chart

Passage plan, communications
  • Route up to 150 M off; 3 days
  • Mid-route: 300 M from any NAVTEX
  • Aboard: VHF/DSC, NAVTEX receiver,
    Inmarsat-C terminal with EGC

You are planning a 3-day passage whose middle lies out of NAVTEX range. What do you rely on for the met warnings there?

  1. SafetyNET — the METAREA warnings by satellite
  2. VHF Ch 16 — the coastguard's gale warnings
  3. NAVTEX on 490 kHz — the national service
  4. The GRIB you downloaded before leaving
Show the answer

A. SafetyNET — the METAREA warnings by satellite

SafetyNET (Inmarsat EGC) broadcasts the GMDSS high seas warnings and forecasts for each METAREA, far beyond NAVTEX range.

Forecast products — GMDSS, NAVTEX and SafetyNET · Explained in: Forecast products

Forecast and rules
  • Significant height 3.5 m, period 8 s
  • 1 in 10 ≈ 1.27 × Hs
  • 1 in 1000 ≈ 1.86 × Hs
  • Mean wave ≈ 0.63 × Hs

You will spend three hours of tonight's passage in this sea. What is the biggest wave you plan for?

  1. About 3.5 m
  2. About 4.4 m
  3. About 2.2 m
  4. About 6.5 m
Show the answer

D. About 6.5 m

3 h of 8-s waves is about 1350 waves, so the 1-in-1000 wave will come: 1.86 × 3.5 = 6.5 m.

Sea state — significant and maximum wave height · Explained in: Sea state and heavy weather

Practise it

All 100 questions of this topic are in the app: practice by topic with the reason after every answer, your mistakes brought back, and a timed mock exam. Free, no sign-up, in the browser or in Telegram.