Theory · topic 5 of 10 · 8 min

Batteries, electrics & shore power

A charter yacht lives on her batteries from the moment the shore cable comes off. At check-in you find out how the banks are split, what each breaker feeds and what the numbers mean; during the week you spend amp-hours like fuel.

1 · Batteries and switches

Two banks, kept apart

Why does a charter yacht have separate engine and house batteries?

So a house bank flattened overnight still leaves the engine able to start: each engine has its own starter battery, and the house bank runs everything else. Switch to BOTH only to start on a flat battery.

Each engine has its own starter battery; the house bank runs everything else. Kept separate, a house bank flattened overnight still leaves the engine able to start. On a catamaran ask which alternator charges the house bank: often only one does.

Battery switches
  • ENGINE, HOUSE: on at sea and at anchor
  • BOTH: only to start on a flat battery
  • Then BOTH off and an hour's charge
  • Engine running: never switch ENGINE off
  • Leaving the boat: all off

Switching the engine battery off while the engine runs can wreck the alternator. Terminals should be clean, tight and covered: a spanner dropped across them starts a fire, so tightening them is the base's job. Learn where the master switches are, for the dark.

Leave the battery vent open: batteries on charge give off hydrogen. A hot, bulging battery that smells of rotten eggs is being overcharged: charger off, hatches open, no sparks, call the base.

2 · Volts and amp-hours

Read the bank at rest

At what voltage do the boat's batteries need charging?

At about 12.2 V on a rested lead-acid bank: that is half charge, time to charge. 12.7 V is full and 12.0 V or less is flat; read it only after an hour with no charge and no load.

The voltmeter tells the state of a lead-acid bank only when the bank has rested: no charge and no load for an hour or so.

Rested voltsHouse bank
12.7Full
12.4About 75 %
12.2Half: time to charge
12.0 or lessFlat

On shore power or with the engine running you read the charger, not the battery: up to 14.4 V in bulk, 13.8 V on FLOAT, when the bank is full. Lower volts with the amps negative mean nothing is charging.

A battery monitor counts amp-hours out and in since the last full charge: 76 Ah used from a 200 Ah bank is 62 %. If it says 100 % while the volts say 12.1, it has lost count: believe the volts. A lithium bank is the opposite: it holds about 13 V until nearly empty, so trust the percentage.

An old bank that falls to 11.9 V after a quiet night has lost its capacity. If the alternator fails mid-week: cut every load, make for shore power, call the base.

3 · Power budget

Amps times hours

How many amp-hours can I actually use from a 200 Ah battery bank?

About 100 Ah: only half of a lead-acid bank is usable between charges. Budget in amp-hours, current times time: a fridge drawing 5 A for 10 hours takes 50 Ah.

Current times time gives amp-hours. Only half of a lead-acid bank is usable, so a 200 Ah bank gives you about 100 Ah between charges.

One night at anchor
  • House bank 2 × 100 Ah: 100 Ah usable
  • Fridge 5 A × 10 h = 50 Ah
  • Anchor light and phones: a few Ah more
  • Morning: run the engine for an hour

With no solar and no generator, plan an hour of engine morning and evening and switch off what is not in use. A solar controller showing +7 A at 13.9 V is charging, but three fridges drawing 12 A round the clock take about 290 Ah a day, more than the sun gives back. Before a windy passage charge full: autopilot, plotter, VHF and bilge pump all run on that bank.

The 230 V sockets are live only on shore power or a generator. An inverter makes 230 V from the batteries, at a price: a 1,600 W hairdryer draws about 140 A (1,600 ÷ 12 = 133 A, plus the inverter's losses). A small one runs a laptop, not a kettle, and left on idle it still takes about 1 A: 24 Ah a day.

4 · Shore power

The cable goes live last

How do I connect shore power safely in a marina?

With the boat's 230 V main off, plug in at the boat end, then the pedestal, then switch the pedestal on; the 230 V main and the charger go on last. Never hold a live plug.

230 V on a wet pontoon can kill. Never hold a live plug, never accept a cable with a cut sheath, and never push bare wires into a pedestal: ask the marina office for an adapter.

Shore power, in order
  • Connect: boat's 230 V main off
  • Boat end, pedestal end, pedestal switch
  • Then the 230 V main and the charger
  • Leave: charger and main off, pedestal off
  • Unplug the pedestal first, then the boat
On the 230 V panelWhat you do
Reverse-polarity light onUnplug and tell the base
RCD trips with one applianceLeave it off: it leaks to earth
Pedestal trips at breakfastOne big appliance at a time

Watts divided by 230 give amps: a 1,200 W water heater, a 2,000 W kettle and a 500 W charger together draw 16 A, too much for a 10 A pedestal. Keep the cable out of the water; nobody swims in a marina: stray current kills.

5 · Panel, lights and pumps

Every breaker shown, every light seen

Which breakers should stay on overnight at anchor?

Three: the anchor light, the bilge pump and the gas alarm. The all-round white anchor light burns every night at anchor (COLREGs Rule 30).

Have each breaker switched on in turn: you will be looking for them at night. Test the lights after dark, from the pontoon.

Navigation lightsunder power, from ahead
Anchor lightall-round white at the masthead

At anchor the all-round white light burns every night (COLREGs Rule 30). If it fails, hang a white lamp in the foretriangle; nobody climbs the mast in the dark. Overnight three breakers stay on: anchor light, bilge pump, gas alarm.

  • Bilge pump: switch to ON and hear it, lift the float to prove AUTO, find the hand-pump handle. Running in a dry bilge, its float is stuck: pump off, check the bilge by eye, call the base.
  • Gas and CO alarms: press TEST on each.
  • Windlass: engine running whenever you use it.
  • Electric winch: everyone knows where its isolator is.
  • Generator: its exhaust carries carbon monoxide; nobody swims at the stern while it runs.
6 · Fuses, breakers, fire

A fuse protects the wire

What do I do if a fuse keeps blowing on a charter boat?

Fit a spare of the same rating, never a bigger one; if it blows again, leave it out and call the base. A fuse is there to stop the wire overheating.

A breaker resets; a fuse needs a spare, so ask where the spares are kept. Both are there to stop a wire overheating.

What happensWhat you do
A fuse blowsFit a spare of the same rating, never a bigger one
It blows againLeave it out and call the base
A breaker trips again at onceA short circuit: leave it off
Smoke behind the panelBattery switches off, then the extinguisher; no water

Instruments dead by day? Steer by compass and paper chart, and ring the base.

Practice questions

Questions from this topic, as the app asks them. Open one to see the answer.

Catamaran 42 ft — batteries
  • Port engine: 1 × 80 Ah
  • Stbd engine: 1 × 80 Ah
  • House bank: 3 × 100 Ah
  • Fitted 2022 (base)

The technician opens the battery lockers of the catamaran and shows you this. What do you want to be sure of before he closes them?

  1. That each engine has its own starter battery and the house bank is separate from both
  2. That the house bank starts the engines when the starter batteries are low
  3. That the port engine battery also runs the fridge, being the strongest one
  4. That all five batteries are wired as one bank, for the most capacity
Show the answer

A. That each engine has its own starter battery and the house bank is separate from both

Separate banks: a flat house bank after a night at anchor still leaves each engine its own battery to start.

Check-in: batteries · Explained in: Batteries and switches

First morning at anchor; you read the battery monitor before switching anything on. What state is the house bank in?

  1. Overcharged — a bank at rest should read 12.0 V
  2. Flat — anything under 13 V needs the engine now
  3. Full — a rested bank at 12.7 V is near 100 %
  4. Half — 12.7 V is midway between flat and full
Show the answer

C. Full — a rested bank at 12.7 V is near 100 %

Rested, no load: 12.7 V full, 12.4 V about 75 %, 12.2 V half, 12.0 V or less flat.

Battery monitor · Explained in: Volts and amp-hours

Main panel
  • Left: 12 V DC — breakers, voltmeter
  • Right: 230 V AC — RCD, charger, outlets, water heater
  • Inverter 300 W: one socket at the chart table

Your crew asks whether the kettle and the hairdryer will work in the bays. What do you tell them?

  1. Yes — switch the charger on and it converts 12 V into 230 V for the outlets
  2. Yes with the engine running — the alternator powers the 230 V side of the panel
  3. Only on shore power — at anchor the 230 V outlets are dead and the inverter runs a laptop, not a kettle
  4. Yes — flip the 230 V main breaker and the batteries feed the outlets directly
Show the answer

C. Only on shore power — at anchor the 230 V outlets are dead and the inverter runs a laptop, not a kettle

The 230 V side is live only on shore power or a generator; a 300 W inverter will not run a 2 kW kettle.

12 V and 230 V systems · Explained in: Power budget

Red230 V panel after plugging in
  • Shore power: green light on
  • Reverse polarity: red light on
  • RCD: holding

The technician plugs the shore cable in and goes to fetch the inventory list. You look at the 230 V panel. What do you do?

  1. Press the RCD test button to clear the warning and carry on
  2. Turn the plug the other way round in the pedestal socket
  3. Ignore it — polarity only matters on American 110 V boats
  4. Unplug it and tell the base — the pedestal is miswired; no 230 V until it is fixed
Show the answer

D. Unplug it and tell the base — the pedestal is miswired; no 230 V until it is fixed

Reverse polarity leaves the live side on breakers that should be neutral; an RCD does not make it safe.

Shore power — polarity and RCD · Explained in: Shore power

DC panel
  • NAV LIGHTS · ANCHOR LIGHT · INSTRUMENTS
  • FRIDGE · WATER PUMP · BILGE PUMP
  • WINDLASS · VHF · AUTOPILOT
  • CABIN LIGHTS · FANS · USB

The technician waves at the panel, says 'all the usual' and heads for the engine bay. What do you ask him to do first?

  1. Explain the 230 V side only — the 12 V side is obvious
  2. Switch on each breaker in turn and show you what it feeds
  3. Hand you the boat manual to read the panel on passage
  4. Leave every breaker on so you can find out as you go
Show the answer

B. Switch on each breaker in turn and show you what it feeds

You will be finding these at night in a blow; VHF, instruments and the windlass each have their own breaker.

Check-in: electrical panel · Explained in: Panel, lights and pumps

Fuse holder: INSTRUMENTS
  • Fuse 10 A, blown
  • Spares box: 5 A, 10 A, 15 A, 20 A

Monday, the plotter and the depth go dead together. Behind the panel you find this. What do you fit?

  1. Any spare that fits the holder, since the rating is only a guide
  2. A 15 A spare, so that it does not blow again on the same load
  3. A 10 A spare; if it blows again, leave it out and call the base
  4. A 20 A spare, since a bigger fuse protects the plotter better
Show the answer

C. A 10 A spare; if it blows again, leave it out and call the base

A fuse protects the wire; a bigger one lets the wire burn before it blows. A second blow means a fault, not a weak fuse.

Fuses — spares · Explained in: Fuses, breakers, fire

Practise it

All 50 questions of this topic are in the app: practice by topic with the reason after every answer, your mistakes brought back, and a timed mock exam. Free, no sign-up, in the browser or in Telegram.